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Editor, analyst, critic, Isabelle Naessens is a thoughtful, committed and versatile woman who worked in international relations before turning to communications. A creative relational strategist, she joins the Henkel Media team as senior editor and content creator.

ISABELLE NEASSENS

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Have flair and team spirit

We're starting to know the drill. In December, there were a series of announcements: masks became mandatory again for staff at all times, regardless of how far apart they worked. Capacity was reduced to 50%. Bars were closed indefinitely and dining rooms were emptied at 10 p.m. starting December 26, then closed on the 31st.

“We were supposed to be open for the holidays,” says Simon Lemire, chef and co-owner at Épi in Trois-Rivières (interviewed in March 2021 during one of the reopenings), “but the week before Christmas, in a matter of days, the government had already announced several changes. So since we no longer knew which way to turn, we decided to take control of what we could! To limit losses, but also to avoid being a source of contamination, we decided to close on December 18.” To sell off his wine stock, he held a wine merchant day on December 30 with his sommelier, a significant additional source of income.


At O'Chevreuil in Sherbrooke, we also saw it coming. "We knew what was coming," Charles-Emmanuel Pariseau, co-owner, had sniffed out. The number of cases was skyrocketing. On December 23, we announced a preventive closure until January 4. We had a festive brunch on the 31st, but we didn't want to take the risk of rapprochements and put our staff and customers in danger. We probably lost between $30,000 and $35,000 for that week, but it was a fair bet, if I stick to the headache my colleagues had to go through with their inventories on their hands and customer recalls."

Moreover, a year ago, Charles decided to take off his chef's hat, to keep only that of restaurateur.



“It’s almost impossible to manage logistics and kitchens at the same time. I already have enough to juggle with full-time servers, part-time servers, health instructions, inventory, management, administration, marketing and the website. Our priority is to maintain a solid team. Each one has their own specialty; we work with pleasure. We want to guarantee our twenty jobs.”




O'Chevreuil has remained in service for delivery via the SkipTheDishes platform and take-out provided by Shopify, which is working very well according to the owner. "We set up our ordering system, delivery/pick-up, as soon as the first closure ended. We learn over time and evolve; payment is simpler and our offer is expanded. Customers are happy to still find their little simmered dishes." This is also what the Trois-Rivières refreshment bar intends to do. On December 23, Simon generously distributed the dishes he had left, almost on the fly! In two hours, enough people had come by that there was nothing left to offer. A great experience that will be repeated monthly, inspired by the success of take-out meals .



Defining a tightly woven restoration model

February 2021. We launched La Famille , writes Sandra Jarry on her social networks, one of the five partners. At least, we were officially incorporated, without knowing what future the pandemic had in store for our professions, without knowing what face the restaurant industry of tomorrow would take. At that time, we put all our little change into this project, out of survival instinct and also because we were eager to show the culmination of our experiences, our reflections. So that we could finally show what has been boiling inside us for more than ten years. Since the day we found a family: a bunch of eclectic people, sometimes bizarre, but so real and passionate.



Homemade brioche and foie gras, local sweetgrass caramels, reduced fir cream, sea buckthorn or chichiquelite tarts (that little dark garden blueberry that would have made love to a black nightshade), sumacade (a decoction of local sumac in lemonade, that scarlet red casserole that grows candidly along our highways before our untrained eyes)… these are just a few of the products that fill the hand-woven picnic baskets and the online pantry of the refreshment bar. “The restaurant business is the best showcase for little-known local products, which are our heritage,” says the young enthusiast.


For the winter, La Famille offers sublime aperitif kits and meal boxes, delivered to your home. The holiday service stopped on December 23.

"That's the spirit of our company. We want restaurateurs to rediscover the fire that drives them, and that includes taking time for themselves, for their families, instead of being constantly under pressure. We need to restore the image of this demanding profession, make it viable and healthy, and remove the idealism that causes so many small restaurants to open everywhere and close quickly."

Collaboration with some sixty local businesses is at the heart of the project: “I make butter with the cream that I collect from the dairy; there’s nothing like milk from Jersey cows! We bought four boards from the Mains-Nues vegetable garden that the farmer grows for us and that we transform. We offer local natural wines in our online cellar. We build networks with artisans and farmers across the Estrie region: they are our suppliers, it makes sense to work hand in hand and help each other. We will soon have eight partners, including the maître’D, the sommelier and our educator who is also a cook!”



La Famille is the first ghost kitchen in Quebec: it offers culinary experiences without a dining room! Quite a logistical headache, according to Sandra, who nevertheless succeeded. The success of her custom-made summer #basketparty is already well-known, as is that of the restaurant pop-up that attracted 650 people on a Wednesday in Frelighsburg, a village of 1,000 inhabitants, or her private events with chefs at home, and public events in vineyards, orchards or farms.



"We already knew before the pandemic that it was time to reinvent the model that was starting to crumble. Being a restaurateur is not a job by default or the dream of a city dweller who wants to change careers... It is both knowing how to transform and promote products, but also being a good manager, having a head on your shoulders, being able to do marketing and the web, being aware of your social and environmental impact by being a stakeholder in the agri-food system. You also have to develop networks and, above all, be truly passionate!"

Being a restaurateur in 2022: community, flair and passion

2022-01-05

ISABELLE NEASSENS

7 minutes

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If there is one profession that has lost its feathers recently, it is that of restaurateur. The industry has become unpredictable and jobs are more than precarious. Since the fateful March 2020, these entrepreneurs have been particularly affected by the pandemic: they have had to deal with all sorts of restrictions and implement a number of instructions. The icing on the cake: 24 hours before the most profitable evening of the year, New Year's Eve, restaurateurs had to close their dining rooms for the umpteenth time. They have had enough of resilience and adaptation in 2020 and 2021! However, there are still diehard druids in front of the cauldrons, who resist again and again! Testimonies from valiant restaurateurs and an inspiring young shoot that is ready to redefine the models.

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